A different take…
Okay I am a little passionate about this topic. I feel the sun has got such a bad rap over the past 2 decades concerning skin care and aging. First let’s give credit that it is the life force and if we did not have it we would not even exist! Plus it grows those very foods we eat that nourish our skin.
It is our diet lacking in fats, proteins and omega-3 fatty acids that leads our bodies to not being able to repair tissue at the rate it could if we ate a healthier diet or raw food diet. The sun gives us our vitamin D as well as aids in mood levels. I strongly believe it is not the sun causing cancers people! Cancer can’t exist in healthy tissue! Now I went to a skin care seminar and would like to share with you this view.
If you have read my article on Understanding Our Skin, you know our skin has an absorption rate. So imagine a product powerful enough to block out the sun’s rays. This is what you are smearing into your skin. Plus a 45 block does not work any better than a 15 block. Why? Your skin can only absorb so much before it is full. So all you are doing is adding more crazy harsh chemicals into your skin. Then you go outside to ‘bake’. Well you are literally baking these chemicals into your skin. Funny thing is this is where they find cancer. Hummmm… makes you think. And we have defiantly seen the rise in skin cancers and it coincides with our planets bad diets and sunblock craze. No medical proof, I am not claiming that at all. But just look at the common sense of it all.
So since our cells have a memory, we can teach them how to tan. How? Well by small exposure to the sun over and over without ever getting burned in-between. Notice you always burn in areas you have had a bad burn before? Well I had to be ultra pale when working in Japan. My skin tone in high school during the winter would get so pale people often said i looked a bit sick or grey. Yet now after years of staying away from the sun, so I could work well in the Japanese Modeling world, I hold a deep tan throughout the year and rarely burn. I use no sunscreen and feel better than ever.
Heres a crazy thought…
If you are starting to burn, maybe it’s natures way of saying to put a t-shirt on. Or use the shade of a tree and get reconnected with the earth. It costs less than sun block yet your still enjoying our life-giving Sun.
This Spring I will be launching my secret recipe tanning lotion. All natural, you can buy the ingredients at your local health food store and you will tan a deep rich brown you would never believe! oh, this ones great folks. Plus it nourishes your skin!
Pimple Facts & Treatments
Skin lesions
Lesions – are structural changes in the tissue. Any mark or abnormality would be considered a lesion. There are primary, secondary and tertiary lesions.
Vesicle – is a small blister or sac containing clear fluid. Poison ivy would be a vesicle.
Bulla – is a large blister containing watery fluid, similar to a vesicle but larger.
Papule – is a pimple; small elevation on the skin that contains no fluid but may develop puss.
Pustule – is an inflamed papule with a white or yellow center containing puss.
Cyst – is a closed sac containing fluid, infection or other matter above or below the skin.
Macule – is a flat discoloration on the skin such as a freckle.
Tubercle – is an abnormal rounded, solid lump, larger than a papule.
Question:
I know popping your pimples is bad, my Esthetician always tells me to just leave it. But I can’t help myself, any advice or tips on how to properly extract a pimple?
Answer:
Well yes, your Esthetician was right in telling you to leave it. In most cases this is the best bet. If you read the above types of lesions, the only one that is truly ’poppable’ is a pustule. These are the ones we see with a very obvious white or yellow head. Best to do it after a shower when your skin is warm and pliable. The warmth of the shower opens up your pores and start to soften the trapped sebum by the heat alone. Get a tissue and double wrap it around your two index fingers. This will stop spillage of sebum onto your skin which could cause another skin irritation if left, especially since your pores are all open.Then do the opposite than what most people want to do. Place your fingers around pustule and press DOWN! Not up! If it does not come out right away it was not ready to pop. It should never be a struggle. Apply a toner or wipe area with cotton swab and apply appropriate pimple cream if using one.
Advanced Aesthetic Topics
We hear so much now of days about free radiclals, but what exactly are they and how do they work? Well free radicals are little aggressive, unstable, oxygen-containing molecules that are bouncing around in the air all over the place. They are bouncing around because they are unstable and are looking for an electron to complete them. So they steal an electron from other molecules, thereby damaging the cells from which they steal. Free radical damage causes aging. So that is why it is so very important that we get enough antioxidants both internally and externally through topical products.
Antioxidants are vitamins, amino acids and natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects that free radicals cause. My favourites are vitamins A, E and C, minerals, green tea and Grapeseed.
Our CRF (cell renewal factor), is what keeps our cells from building up and this process slows with age.
Babies – 14 days
Teenagers – 21 – 28 days
Middle age – 28 – 42 days
50 and up – 42 – 84 days
Our skins ph level sits at about 5.5. The ph scale runs from 1-14. Acids have a ph of 1 to 6, 7 is neutral and alkalines range from 8 – 14. So it is so important that we chose a cleanser that closely matches our skins own ph level so we don’t strip our skin of our hydrolipidic layer.
Our hydrolipidic layer is a layer of oil that our bodies naturally produce to keep us protected from environmental concerns, free radical damage, pollution and moisture loss through evaporation. Soaps can be very drying on our skin seeing they often sit around a 10 or 11. I find the best way to clean my skin is though dry brush exfoliation, followed by a shower. This way you are removing all the dead skin without striping it and it washes away down the drain. I follow by applying oil while I am still wet to trap that water in my skin. Pat dry so you do not remove the oil you just applied. (If you poured oil and water into a glass you would see the oil on the top and the water on the bottom, this is the same idea you want to achieve by applying oil over your highly moisturized filled skin)
Make-up Care
Caring for make-up brushes – if you buy good quality brushes and take care of them a good set should last you 10 years. There are a few tricks that will keep your brushes looking and feeling like new. Remember to clean your brushes about every 2 weeks with a gentle shampoo or brush solvent. Commercial sanitizer and sprays contain a high level of alcohol and will dry your brushes overtime. While cleaning always put the ferrule (metal ring that holds the bristles in place) pointed downward. Otherwise the glue that holds them in place may weaken and your bristles will start to break.
What to have in your Make-up Kit-
Other then the obvious, make-up, you should keep a few tools on hand.
Cape or towel Alcohol Tweezers Hair band or tie
Brushes Mirror Q-Tips Pencil sharpener
Lash comb Sponges Tissue Spatulas
The best place to apply your make up is in a very well-lit room with natural outside light also filtering in. This is because light from light bulbs is cast down differently than the sun does. The sun casts light over the full color spectrum allowing you will see the ‘true’ color of your make-up.
Skin Care Products & their Benefits
There are about 5 main skin care categories. They are:
Cleansers Toners
Exfoliants Masks
Moisturizers & treatment creams
Cleansers – there are face washes, lotions and creams. They should be used twice daily, morning and evening. A face wash is for people with oily or acne skin. It foams up and leaves that ‘squeaky clean’ feeling sometimes leaving skin a little tight. Use with caution seeing these cleansers can lead to over dry skin which causes an over production of oil and can accelerate acne. A cleansing lotion is a water-based cleanser and is best for normal and combination skin. For dry skin a milky based cleanser is recommended. It can be applied with a soft damp cloth or cotton pad and wiped off with a cloth or pad. A cleansing cream is an oil-based emulsion used mostly to dissolve dirt and make-up. This is for a more mature skin or very dry skin. It can be applied and removed the same as a cream but should be followed by a Toner or a different cleanser to make sure all residue is wiped off.
Toners – can also be called fresheners or astringents. They are applied to the face by a cotton pad or by a spray mist. They are used after your cleanser to restore the ph balance of your skin. Tonic lotions vary in strength and alcohol content. Fresheners have an alcohol content of 0-4% and are great for mature, dry or sensitive skin. Toners have an alcohol content of 4-15% and are best suited to tighten or tone the skin. Astringents alcohol content is about 35% and is used for oily or acneic skin types. They can do more harm than good if used incorrectly.
Exfoliants – an exfoliant is an ingredient that sloughs off dead skin. There are many different forms of exfoliating. Dry brushing, enzyme peels, AHA’s, gentle scrubs and creams. They are either mechanical or chemical.
Masks – masks is one of the most liked beauty treatment. People have been applying beauty masks for thousands of years and enjoying there benefits. There are two main types of masks, setting and non-setting. Setting masks are designed with ingredients such as clay, paraffin wax or alginate and provide a complete barrier over the skin. A clay based mask draws things out of the skin and are best for oily or acneic skin. Non-setting masks stay hydrated and are best for dry skin. They have bases made up of aloe or cucumber. They calm, nourish, hydrate, soothe and rejuvenate the skin.
Serums and Eye Creams – are made with vitamins, lipids and antioxidants and are usually thin liquids. They are made with smaller molecules so they can penetrate further into the skin. They are applied under moisturizers.
Moisturizers – are used after cleansing to protect and nourish the skin. Water-based moisturizers absorb quickly and leave no residue and are good for daily use. Oil-based moisturizers contain emollients that are heavier and protect the surface of the skin by trapping water under the skin. It is important to use moisturizer to balance the water/oil content of your skin.
Day/night Weekly
leansers Exfoliation
Toner Masks
Serums/Eye creams
Moisturizers
Waxing & Proper Moisturization
Question:
I want to have a smooth hair free body since I am a body builder, yet I struggle with so many ingrowns and red bumps all over. What am I doing wrong?
Answer:
Your service provider probably never told you all the after care that must be in place to keep these issues at bay. Your pores are going to be open and more exposed and sensitive.. So avoid hot tubs, tanning beds and pools for the first day. Wash immediately after the gym and don’t keep those sweaty t-shirts on for too long. Wash your bedding the day before you get waxed. Don’t slather yourself with all these lotions afterwards that contain so many preservatives and fillers. Your skin is sensitive and has an absorption rate and if your putting on such creams your going to have a reaction. Best advice.. If you can’t read the ingredient label on your skin care bottle , don’t use it. Our bodies are organic and we should be treating & feeding them what they crave. And what our skin craves on the lines of topical treatments is plant oils and fats. The best for your skin is Jojoba Oil. This is because , our bodies can readily absorb it, rather then it just sitting on the surface of our skin, which most lotions do. Which can fool most, cause it feels soft. Well of course it does it’s sitting on the surface. But in no way is it being absorbed into your skin to provide your skin with the proper moisture it needs. And moisturized skin stands up better to the elements then non moisturized skin. Also most of the body moisturizers that people use are water based.
What does water do??? Evaporates. Ever notice your constantly putting moisturizer on? And that your skin still looks dry and scaly? That’s cause your treating your skin with products that can’t be absorbed into the skin. So as we go through our day the outside elements can take there toll. And as your body moisturizer is evaporating into the air, it is also taking a little moisture that your body made itself. Now imagine putting a plant oil on, such as Jojoba oil or coconut oil, verses a lotion. An oil is recognized by the body, seeing we produce our own natural oil called sebum, which moisturize the bodies skin. You’ll probably notice that with the use of the oil your skin has a radiant glow that lasts all day verses a lotion that seems to disappear within a few hours. Good luck!
Robin/Esthetician
Understanding our Skin.
Skin
Did you know that our skin is the largest organ in our body? It is amazingly complex system that consists of five different layers. Our skin should be moist, soft, smooth and somewhat acidic.
Interesting Skin Facts
Our skin weighs approximately seven pounds and accounts for about 15% of our body weight.
Skin contains one-half to two-thirds of the blood in our body & one half of our primary immune cells.
Each inch of skin contains:
-15 feet of blood vessels
-12 feet of nerves
-650 sweat glands
-100 oil glands
-65 hairs
-1300 nerve endings
Skin Functions
Our skin’s main functions are protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion and absorption.
It’s most amazing feature is the ability to heal itself. It has many mechanisms to protect the body from injury and invasion. Sebum is the oils on our skin, this protects us from external factors and keep us looking young. For all of those women that hate their oily skin, just hang on and be happy, it will slow your aging process down. Melanin is what protects us from the sun.
Sense of touch – Nerve endings in the papillary layer of the dermis (skin) sense touch. Sensory nerve endings respond to touch, pain, heat, cold and pressure.
Heat Regulation – Our body’s internal temperature is set at 98.6F or 37 C. When it is cold our bodies respond by constricting of our blood vessels which decreases the blood flow. So that’s why we get goose bumps, it keeps that heat from escaping. So when we overheat millions of sweat glands and hair follicles dissipate heat through perspiration.
Excretion – One of the most amazing traits about skin. If we did not do this we would die! All those toxins would be back absorbed into the body and make us sick. So that’s also why those work out fanatics push themselves to the point they are pouring sweat.
Secretion – oil, a.k.a. sebum, is secreted by the sebaceous gland to protect the surface of the skin and coats the hair with a protective coating of oil. Since skin is about 50-70% water the oil coating slows down the water evaporation that happens daily.
Absorption – the skin can selectively absorb topical products and creams through the sweat glands and hair follicles. The skin can also absorb oxygen and discharge carbon dioxide.
Layers of the Skin
The skin is made up of two parts, the Epidermis and the Dermis. Epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. It consists of:
Stratum germinativum
Stratum spinosum
Stratum granulosum
Stratum lucidum
Stratum corneum
The Epidermis
Stratum germanativum – A.k.a., the basal layer. It is located just above the dermis layer. It contains only one layer of cells; this is where cell division occurs continuously. As the cells mature they become stronger and start to rise to the surface. This is also the layer where Melanin resides.
Stratum spinosum – this is the layer where tiny prickly spines or appendages from the cells below it bind to the next layer. It’s your ‘glue’ that holds it altogether, which is called desmosomes.
Stratum lucidum – it is a clear layer of cells that let light pass through. This layer is found only in the feet and the palms of the hand.
Stratum corneum – is the outermost layer of the epidermis. This is the part we see. It is made up mostly of keratinocytes which is scale-like cells. Keratine is a fibrous protein that provides us with resiliency and protection.
The Dermis
This is considered the live layer of connective tissue below the epidermis. It’s about 25 times thicker then the epidermis and is responsible for supplying nourishment through blood and lymph vessels to the skin.
Glands
There are 2 types of glands in the dermis, the sudoriferous and the sebaceous gland. The sudoriferous gland secrets sweat. The sebaceous gland secrets oil.
Cell Replacement
The skin, heart, liver and kidneys constantly have their cells replaced every 6 to 9 months. Bones every 7 years
Collagen – make up about 70% of the dermis. And elastin is only about one-fifteenth of the collagen amount. Unfortunately they are not replaced by the body. This causes your skin to loose it’s pliability over time.
Research is showing that such ingredients such as vitamin A and AHA’s may stimulate collagen production and improve elasticity.
Skin Color
Melanocytes are cells that produce melanin. Melanin is a complex protein that determines skin and hair color. Every human has about the same number of melanocytes. Your skin & hair color are dependant on how many are activated.
Aging of the Skin
Aging of the skin comes from many factors.
Heredity Health habits
Sun exposure The environment
General lifestyle
Sun has the greatest impact on the aging of our skin. It weakens our collagen and elastin. It’s responsible for about 80% of the aging that happens over our life time.
There are two types of rays, UVA & UVB.
UVA/aging rays – these are the rays that weaken collagen and elastin. They make up about 90-95% of the ultraviolet rays that hit the earth.
UVB/burning rays – are responsible for tanning. They activate our melanocytes. They also contribute to the body’s synthesis of vitamin D and other important minerals.
The sun is a beautiful thing it provides us with life force. It is responsible for all the beautiful plant life we enjoy each day, our food, and our spirit. So go out and enjoy it!
Vitamins and Dietary Supplements
Vitamin A – supports overall health of the skin by repairing of the cells and it regulates the functioning of the skin. You may hear it called retinoic acid or Retin-A. It is an antioxidant that helps prevent certain cancers and improves skins elasticity and thickness.
Vitamin C – you may hear this one called ascorbic acid. It helps repair the skin and tissue and supports the healing process of the body. Also promotes collagen production.
Vitamin D – provides us with rapid healing of the skin. Supports health of bones and can be taken in by our skin from the sun!
Vitamin E – or tocopherol helps protect skin from the damaging effects of the sun when used in line with vitamin A. It can be used internally and externally to heal damaged tissue. Great for stretch marks and burns.
Water and the Skin
Water composes about 50-70% of our body weight. Drinking pure water is essential to the health of our skin and body. It helps eliminate toxins and wastes, regulates body temperature and aids in proper digestion.
The amount of water varies depending on your weight and activity level. To find out just how much water you should be getting take your body weight and divide it by two. Divide this number by eight. The number left is about how many 8-ounce glasses of water you should drink a day.
Example: if you weigh 160lbs.
160 ÷ 2 = 80 ÷ 10 = 10 eight ounce glasses.
If intense physical exercise is done you should add 2 glasses to your final number to account for loss of fluids during perspiration.
Not enough water can actually slow metabolism down by 3%. So drink up to keep that metabolism high! It can ward off hunger pangs and fatigue.
Mascara Tips
Mascara mishaps – if a little dab of mascara gets on your eyelid, wait. Then just flick it off when dry rather then smearing your eye shadow.
To create thicker lashes apply a thin first coat starting at base using a back and forth sweeping motion. Then apply loose powder ( face powder or baby powder) with a brush to eyelashes. then apply your second and even third coat! The layering of mascara & powder add a rich thickness.
Hair Breakage?
Hair breakage – could be that you’re sleeping with your hair tied back. Every time you move you create friction between your hair and the pillow. If your hair is pulled back too tight you may find breakage near the tie due to continuous movement. Try silk pillow cases, they feel great and are less damaging on your tresses.
Beauty and Lifestyle Tip’s
Unsightly razor bumps – diaper cream is not just for babies, it works for any minor skin irritation. Spread on cream after you shave, no need to rub it in, your skin will absorb it. Pass this tip on to your guys, and bye bye rough, irritated skin. Hello smooth kissable skin.
Bra sizing – if you’re like me I always tightened my bra on the tightest hook until I found out just why there are three. It’s not for selection it’s allowing for wear and tare. Over time the elastic in our bras stretch, so as time wears on we can tighten accordingly.
Puffy eyes – Cool cucumbers soaked in chamomile tea. Slice thin so they can lie on top of your skin.
Slippery shoes – Are you always slipping & sliding in those office buildings and at the mall? Attach anti-slip stickers, the kind you buy for the bottom of the tub, onto the bottom of your shoes. For a funky look try colourful little flowers. Now you’ve got a sure-footed strut and personalized footwear with a purpose.
Long straight hair can lack body but takes way to long to curl. Plus having body is different from curls. There is an easy way to achieve this with no work at all. In the morning flip head upside down and spray a root pumper just at the roots. Comb thru. Take fingers and give a good ‘scrub’ to your scalp, this will put air back into your hair after combing through the root pumping spray. (plain flexible hair spray works too.) then with fingers loosely twist hair into bun on top of head, secure with bobby pins at base. This prevents an elastic mark left behind. Then just go on your day. Your hair will be out of your face all day and when ready for incredible body just release pins, shake head and lightly spray. Volia! Supermodel sexy tresses with no work at all!
Bags under eyes – Use hemorrhoid cream, models have been doing this for years due to all those late night social events with early morning bookings. It works!
